We made it to the Arctic Ocean!
We eventually made it to the Arctic Ocean! Sometimes you just have to go for it. We made a run for it, but the weather and the river crossing ferry just didn’t cooperate adding complications and delays. But, that’s part of what makes adventures memorable and the drive to the Arctic Ocean was indeed memorable.
We drove the Dempster Highway north and continued on the Inuvik-Tuktoyaktuk Highway (ITH) all the way past the Arctic Circle to the Arctic Ocean. 450 miles of dirt and gravel road, potholes too numerous to count, inconsistent washboard, two river crossings by ferry, a muddy, slippery mess in sections.. and then – there was the Arctic Ocean.
We pulled into Dawson City on May 28th. The person camped next to us – a great amateur wildlife photographer – raved about getting up to the Dempster Highway. We started hearing news that the ferries on the Dempster Highway should be starting operation any day, after a long winter pause. We were intrigued with the possibility. We decided to make a run for it.
Alaska Road Trip Overall Progress:
Shepherdsville, KY, USA to Tuktoyaktuk, Northwest Territories, Canada
34 Days (5/9/25 to 6/11/25)
5,030 miles
Drive to the Arctic Ocean
We backtracked the 25 miles out of Dawson City and turned up the Dempster Highway. The Tombstone Territorial Park was just thirty miles up the Dempster Highway. A quick stop at the Tombstone Interpretive Centre informed us that one of the two river ferries we needed to progress north to the Arctic Ocean and beyond was not yet open.
“You miss 100% of the shots you don’t take.” – Wayne Gretzky, Canadian former professional ice hockey player and head coach
In an effort to pace ourselves awaiting news on the ferry, we attended the afternoon ranger guided hike. Walking on the permafrost of the artic tundra was like floating on a defrosting layer of muddy sod while the soil below remained frozen. We settled in the Tombstone Mountain Campground to a cold evening rain which left a light snow covering the surrounding hillsides and mountain tops above us.
Travel was slow going, but the views were majestic as we continued north. A bear running parallel to us in the scrub, caribou grazing along the road, an arctic fox running through the scrub with a catch in its mouth, seeing many willow ptarmigans birds (Alaska’s state bird), crisp white swans floating on small lakes, and a weasel crossing the road highlighted the wildlife as we slowly pushed north.
Our Adventure Driving to the Arctic Ocean
Learning the ferry, that we were anxiously awaiting, was still not yet operational, we grabbed a campsite. Apparently the ferry was ready and even opened briefly, but high water washed out the gravel loading ramp. More work was needed when the weather clears. The site we snagged at the Eagle Plains Campground, was essentially in a parking lot, but we had electricity which was a big win!
I have learned to really appreciate the simple things like electricity. Although we have two “house” batteries and propane and a generator for our camper van; balancing heat, internet, cooking, and charging electronics can be challenging. Its exciting to have an electric hookup to run nearly everything at once without thinking about managing power!
The Eagle Plains lounge proved to be a comfortable place to relax and ride out a few days. Talking to a truck driver who just pulled in for lunch, he made a call and said his company has news the ferry was opening. We chatted for awhile and learned he was hauling 10,000 gallons of jet fuel for the medical evacuation helicopters further north. He also needed to cross the ferry to make his delivery. We figured he was a good source to know when the ferry would start operating.
Three nights after arriving at Eagle Plains, the official news was posted on the various government and travel websites and spread by word of mouth – the ferry was operating at the Peel River Crossing! It was late afternoon, so we topped off diesel, propane and water and made sure everything was ready to head out the next morning.
Crossed into Canada’s Northwest Territories, and stopped at Inuvik for the night at the end of the Dempster Highway. Ate a Musk ox burger at Grandma’s in Inuvik and decided to head out in the morning.
A new road, the Inuvik-Tuktoyaktuk Highway (ITH) was completed in 2017 and opens the final 87 miles to the small coastal community of Tuktoyaktuk and the drive to the Arctic Ocean. Seeing the Arctic Circle sign enroute was motivating to push for the end of the road. And the ITH road literally ends in the Arctic Ocean.
On Wednesday June 11th, we arrived at the Arctic Ocean!
Back the 87 miles to Inuvik only to find out one of the ferries further south was once again closed… so the trip back to the Klondike Highway and Dawson City is apparently going to be an adventure as well. For now, we are at a campground (with electricity!) in Inuvik, in The Northwest Territories awaiting news on the Peel River Ferry.